Denali

"The view from the top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!"

                                                    - Robert Tatum, describing his experience during the first ascent of Denali in 1913 (Coombs 1997)

Fifty-six million years ago, molten magma expelled from the collision of two large landmasses (superterranes) on the Pacific tectonic plate formed the granitic summit of Denali. Tectonic pressure continues to this day. Denali is getting taller at the estimated rate of 1 mm per year. At 20,320,’ it is the highest peak in North America. At 63 north latitude, just over 3 south of the arctic circle, it is one of the coldest mountains in the world, with winter temperatures routinely reaching -50F.

"The huge ice-corniced granite cliffs rise in successive tiers out of a gold-strewn low country, over which wander bear, moose, caribou, and other big game animals. The middle slopes are swept be a sea of storm-driven clouds, and above, far above the usual cloud line, there is a new world of silent glory and snowy wonder. Peak upon peak, range upon range, the great uplift continues to rise into the blackness and mystery of the arctic heavens."

                                    - Frederick A. Cook, To the Top of the Continent, 1908

Alaska, which means "the Great Land" in the Aleut language, spans four time zones and comprises one fifth of the land area of the remainder of the United States. Denali National Park is roughly the size of Massachusetts. It is a fitting site for Denali (which means "the High One" in native Athabascan). While often hidden by clouds, when it does show itself, it dominates the landscape for hundreds of miles.

The climbing route we selected to take up Denali was the West Buttress route. Over 80% of the climbers on Denali take this route. It is the least technically challenging of the possible routes, and consequently the one that affords the highest probability of summitting. We had decided in our meetings that our top priority was summitting. Well, our top priority was getting back down in one piece. But beyond that, we wanted the summit more than we wanted any particular route. The West Buttress, and most routes on the south and west sides of Denali, start with a spectacular airplane ride from the little town of Talkeetna to the Kahiltna glacier. Base camp is on the glacier at 7,200.’ The next camp is at 7,800' and is 5 ½ miles from base camp. From there the route rises 4 miles, and more steeply, up Ski Hill and a series of flats and steps beyond to the camp at 11,000.’ Above the 11,000' camp is Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Point, Windy Corner, the cache area at 13,500' and finally the camp at 14,200.’ This section is about 3 miles and a 3,000' gain in elevation.

The West Butress route                  (map from the NOVA website)

The 14200' camp is well protected and popular. There is a National Park Service Ranger station there, complete with a doctor. There are also established toilets and the Edge of the World. A spot with spectacular views and a 6,000' vertical drop down to the Kahiltna glacier.

Immediately above the 14200' camp are the fixed lines: ropes anchored to the slope. Using a device called an ascender to attach yourself to the rope prevents out of control falls. The slope the fixed lines are on is called the Headwall. The steepest section of the West Buttress route, it rises 2,000' in about a mile. From there one follows the ridge another 1,000 vertical feet and about a mile, past a large rock called Washburn’s Thumb, to the camp at 17,200.’ Thus the route from the 14,200' camp to the 17,200' camp totals 3,000 vertical feet in only 1 3/4 miles. The 17,200' camp is called High Camp, and is the staging area for the summit assault.

Leaving the 17,200' camp, you traverse up a steep hill to Denali pass at 18,000.’ Then turn right (head south) and follow the ridge up a mellow slope. Eventually you pass the Archdeacon’s Tower and reach a flat area called the Football Field. On the other side is Pig Hill, which takes you to the summit ridge. Take a left on the knife edge ridge and proceed for maybe a quarter mile and you are standing on the highest spot in North America, the summit of Denali, 20,320.’

All in all, the route rises 13,120 vertical feet in 16 ½ miles. However, the route is typically done expedition style, since each person has more gear and food than can be carried in one trip. So two trips are required to move the team to the next camp (except for summit day, of course). This increases the overall effort to 23,100 vertical feet and 30 ½ miles. Then you have to get down.